Ingredients

Part 3 ~ Special Ingredients and Additions

BAI HORABHA: See ‘Thai basil’.

BANANA LEAVES: Available frozen in Asian markets. Defrost, wipe with a moist cloth or paper towel and then use as directed in the recipe. You can also use them to decorate platters, trays and buffet tables.

BEAN SPROUTS:  Delicate in flavor and very nutritious, bean sprouts are an important food in most Chinese influenced cuisines. Bean sprouts should be eaten fresh for the best flavor, use them within a day or two of buying them.

BEET GREENS: The usually discarded leaves and stems of beet root. Rich in vitamins and with a slightly peppery flavor, beet greens make a wonderful stir-fry vegetable.

BOK CHOY: Bright white stems, reminiscent of celery and deep green leaves typify bok choy. Baby bok choy is often also available and is considered an upscale substitute for the mature variety. Bok choy requires very little cooking time.

BRUISED: Partially crushed, as opposed to slicing or chopping into little pieces. Bruising aromatic ingredients allows them to better impart their flavor to a soup or simmered dish. After the dish is cooked, the bruised ingredient can be easily removed.

CANDLE NUTS: Known as kemiri nuts in Malaysia, these oil-rich nuts provide a rich texture to the sauces they are used in. Candle nuts are always finely ground as part of the rempah or spice paste. Do not eat raw candle nuts; you will not feel well afterwards. A good substitute for candle nut is Macadamia nut.

CHILI PEPPERS: Many varieties of chili peppers are finding their way into our markets. Chilies are prized not only for the amount of heat that they can add to a dish but also for their flavor. Generally speaking, the smaller  the chili the hotter it will seem, certainly in relation to the amount of chili flavor that it provides. Bigger, fleshier chilies offer more flavor, in relation to heat, and make a good substitute if you want to make a milder dish. The seeds and ribs inside of a chili are the hottest part, so you can remove them if you want to reduce the heat of your recipe while preserving the authentic flavor of the dish. Don’t be shy to wear rubber gloves when handling fresh chilies, you might inadvertently touch your eyes or nose after cutting them.

CHILI POWDER/FLAKES: Made from dried chilies, ground or flaked. The Thai like to use roasted chili flakes, which they call prik pon. Whole dried red chilies are carefully dry roasted to a lovely brick-red color to improve their flavor before grinding. Substitute ordinary chili flakes or even cayenne powder, but be aware that cayenne can pack a really hot wallop.

CHINESE PEPPERCORNS: Not really a type of peppercorn, but a dried flower that has a distinctly hot and numbing effect on the palate. Popular in Sechuanese cuisine and easy to find in Chinese grocery stores.

CHINESE WINE: Known as rice wine. This clear or yellowish wine is available in many Asian grocery stores. Used sparingly, Chinese wine imparts an important flavor and aroma to traditional stir-fry dishes and marinades. Many of my friends in Hong Kong like to use scotch whiskey or even bourbon as a substitute.

CINNAMON STICK: Fragrant cinnamon bark rolled into sticks, available in the spice section of most commercial markets or in bulk.

CORIANDER:  Also known as cilantro and/or Chinese parsley. One of the most popular and versatile herbs worldwide. The plant provides us with three important ingredients:

CORIANDER LEAVES: are used to provide an intense, fresh flavor to soups, stir-fry dishes and salads. Coriander leaves should be added to hot foods at the last moment before serving, to preserve their flavor.

CORIANDER ROOT: can be used to provide the full coriander taste to long-cooking dishes or marinades without the discoloration or loss of flavor that can happen when cooking with the delicate leaves. The volatile aromatic oils that give fresh coriander its pungent flavor are more concentrated in the root. As the roots are usually trimmed prior to display for sale, you can ask your grocer to save them for you if you have trouble finding the whole plant.

CORIANDER SEEDS: are an important ingredient in soups, marinades, curries, pickles and even beer in many different cuisines around the world. The best flavor can be obtained from coriander seeds by dry roasting the whole seeds in a heavy frying pan on medium heat until they release their aroma. The seeds can then be ground or crushed depending on the requirements of the recipe you are following.

CRISPY FRIED GARLIC: A delicious product from Southeast Asia, commercially prepared and used as a garnish for soups, salads and stir-fried noodle dishes. Inexpensive and easy to use.

CUMIN: Similar in shape to caraway seed with a flavor you will recall from store-bought curry powder. Cumin seed is an important spice in many Indian cuisines. Cumin can be used generously to provide strong flavor and aroma, or used in moderation to provide subtle, harmonizing character to a dish. Available in seed form or ground as a powder. The best flavor can be obtained from cumin seed by dry roasting the whole seeds in a heavy frying pan on medium heat until they release their aroma. The seeds can then be ground or crushed depending on the requirements of the recipe you are following.

DARK SOY SAUCE: See ‘Soy Sauce’.

EGG NOODLES: Made from egg and wheat flour, these noodles are readily available commercially fresh or dried.

FISH SAUCE: An essential ingredient in the cooking of a number of Southeast Asian cuisines. Thai fish sauce is generally considered superior to fish sauce made in other countries. This clear, amber-brown sauce is made from small, anchovy-like fish that are salted and fermented. You will find that fish sauce has a pungent aroma, but a surprisingly mild flavor. When used as a condiment at the table a small amount of freshly squeezed lime juice is always added to fish sauce to cut the strong aroma. I prefer to use lighter colored premium brands of Thai fish sauce that can be used in a variety of cuisines both, Asian and Western. The next time you make a Caesar salad, or any recipe calling for anchovies, try using a few teaspoons of fish sauce instead!

GAI LAN:  Often called Chinese Broccoli, gai lan is similar to broccoli rabe or rapini, but has a mellower flavor. Gai lan can be prepared much the same way as ordinary broccoli, but it should be blanched before stir-frying. Avoid buying gai lan that has blossomed as the flavor can become bitter at this point. A few open yellow flowers are not a problem though.

GALANGA: Associated with the cuisine of Thailand, but used throughout Southeast Asia, galanga has a wonderful aroma and flavor that is hard to describe, but not unlike eucalyptus. Galanga is a root of a plant in the ginger family. An important ingredient in Thai curry-pastes and Malaysian rempahs. When sliced and used in soups, it is usually removed before serving or left uneaten. It can be found fresh or dried in Thai, Lao or Vietnamese markets. Dried galanga is inferior in flavor to the fresh variety but will do in a pinch. Soak slices of dried galanga in hot water for at least 25 minutes, or until soft, before using them in any recipe.

GINGER: Now a staple in many Western kitchens as well as Asian ones. Perhaps the most important advice concerning ginger is to not add too much. Fresh ginger can easily unbalance a dish. More and more we see two kinds of ginger in the markets. The traditional mature ginger should be have the thick skin cut away before slicing, grating or cubing as directed (although when I’m feeling lazy I skip this!). Young ginger is starting to be more readily available and is superior in flavor and aroma to the mature variety. When buying, choose smooth skinned, plump pieces of ginger. Fresh peeled ginger can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight jar, covered with whiskey or Chinese wine; later you can use the wine when stir-frying or steaming chicken or seafood. Dry ground ginger is not a substitute for fresh in any recipe in this cookbook.

KAFFIR LIME LEAVES: Also referred to as perfume-lime, citrus or just lime leaves, these are an important ingredient in Thai and Malay cookery. Lime leaves are usually left whole or simply torn in half lengthwise when added to soups, curries and other dishes. They can then be removed before serving, or at the table. An attractive, and edible, garnish can be made by very carefully shredding lime leaves lengthwise with a sharp knife to create a very fine angel hair garnish for Thai curries. Available fresh or dried, you can find these leaves in Thai, Lao or Vietnamese markets.

KARI LEAVES: A legacy from Sri Lanka, these wonderful leaves are hard to find and impossible to substitute. The dried variety has only a hint of the original flavor, but if that is all that is available, then use  it. Used primarily in curries and some typical southern Indian stir-fried dishes. You can find fresh kari leaves in Tamil and South Indian markets.

LEMON GRASS: Fresh lemon grass is available in many Thai, Lao, Vietnamese and now even supermarket produce departments. Lemon grass features in barbecue marinades, salads, curry pastes and in soups from all over Southeast Asia. To release the best flavor and aroma, the stalks need to be bruised or chopped before use. Fresh lemon grass will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator. Dried lemon grass can be used by placing several pieces in a bowl and covering with hot water. Let stand for about 20 minutes, then drain.

LIGHT SOY SAUCE: See ‘Soy Sauce’.

LILY BUDS, LILY FLOWERS: Often referred to as Golden Needles in Chinese cookbooks, lily buds are an important ingredient in many Chinese influenced cuisines. Lily buds are the edible dried flower buds of day lilies. Soften them in hot water for 20 minutes. Remove the hard knob of the stem prior to cooking.

LIME LEAVES: See ‘Kaffir Lime Leaves’.

MORTAR AND PESTLE: There is no turning back! Once you start to use a mortar and pestle for grinding fresh spices and aromatics, you will quickly become addicted to the improved flavor of the food you cook. Most mortars and pestles are made of stone, however Thais often use clay mortars with wooden pestles to work specifically with small amounts of moist curry pastes and for bruising lemon grass, garlic and coriander root. Choose a good-sized mortar and pestle over small ones, you will definitely need the room to work in. As an alternative to a mortar and pestle, there are quite a few styles of small food-processors / grinders available in kitchen shops. They do a very good job of grinding most spice pastes featured in this book. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions. Process ingredients in small batches for best results.

MUNG BEAN NOODLE: Featured in salads, stir-fry dishes, hot-pots and soups. Also known as glass noodles or Chinese bean threads, these are very fine transparent noodles made from mung bean flour. Soak in hot, not boiling, water for about 10 minutes before using.

MUSTARD GREENS: Leaves of the mustard plant grown commonly in India and China for their seeds. Mustard greens are available year-round in Asian markets. The giant curled variety has soft satiny leaves and white or yellow blossoms. When rolled between the fingers the leaves give off a sweet, mustardy aroma. A great addition to stir-fry dishes.

NON-REACTIVE: A very important quality for cookware that you use for long-cooking and simmered dishes is that it be non-reactive. Cookware that is stainless steel, ceramic, glass, enamel, or in some cases, anodized all qualify as non-reactive. What’s important is that food cannot react chemically with the material the cookware is made of, preventing tinny, metallic or other undesirable flavors from contaminating your good cooking.

OIL: When I stir-fry I prefer to use peanut oil. Not just any peanut oil; I prefer peanut oil from Hong Kong or Kowloon. These oils are not as refined as most North American peanut oils and as a result they have a faint, almost imperceptible, peanut flavor that adds delicious complexity to the food you cook. If you are looking for another suitable oil for stir-frying, then use canola oil. It is ideal for the job. Olive, corn, sunflower and blended oils containing any of these are not suitable for stir-frying; they will burn and contribute an acrid flavor to the dish.

OYSTER SAUCE: A dark brown, ketchup like sauce with a rich flavor. Ideally made from the extract of oysters, salt, starch and other choice ingredients, there exist many brands of oyster sauce that contain no oyster at all! Read the label carefully to be sure of what you are buying. Oyster sauce is featured in marinades, hot-pots and stir-fry dishes.

PALM SUGAR: Also known as Gula Melaka or Gula Jawa. A rich flavorful sugar made from the sweet liquid found in the flower of several varieties of  palm tree. Ranging in color from light amber to dark brown, this sugar is an important foil for the heat of many spicy Southeast Asian dishes. I prefer the dark brown Gula Melaka palm sugar from Indonesia. I just use a sharp knife and slice off roughly the amount I need for the recipe in question. Brown sugar, although sweeter, can be substituted for palm sugar in a pinch, but the flavor will not be quite the same.

PANDAN LEAVES: Known in Thailand as bai toey  and in Malaysia as daun pandan, these are the long, narrow leaves of the screw-pine. Used primarily when cooking rice and also to add a unique aroma to desserts and some deep-fried dishes. They have an unmistakable flavor and aroma that is impossible to substitute for. If you can’t find them fresh, then look for pandan extract, popular with many Thai and Malay cooks.

RICE: While many varieties of rice exist, for me there is only one variety of choice: Thai Jasmine rice. Fragrant, perfumed, exquisite; these are all appropriate descriptions of jasmine rice. You will find that jasmine rice is easier to cook than basmati rice and it is significantly cheaper to boot. When it comes to cooking rice I use a rice cooker. Rice cookers are indispensable and as common in Asia as toasters are in North America. Rice cookers are affordable, practical and time saving. They can be used to cook long-grain, short-grain, brown and par-boiled rice. For the average family you will need a five or 10 cup model. Choose a rice cooker with a Teflon lining; the other styles are more hassle than they are worth. The model I have has a timer that allows me to set the cooker in the morning and then come home to freshly cooked rice in the evening!

RICE VINEGAR: Made from rice, this vinegar is colorless and less acidic than regular white vinegar.

SHALLOT ONIONS: Brown or red in color, shallot onions offer superior flavor and are an authentic ingredient in many Southeast Asian cuisines. They are not to be confused with scallions or green onions. Substitute sweet onions for shallots.

SHRIMP PASTE: A powerful flavoring, dark brown in color, made from salted, dried shrimp. While many varieties exist in the wet-markets of Thailand and Malaysia, each one destined for a different application, here in the West we are limited to one or two choices. Don’t let that worry you; just use what is available in your local Asian market. The Thai variety is different from the Malay, but in a pinch you can substitute one for the other, or use anchovy paste.

SOY SAUCE: Made from fermented soy beans, soy sauce is available light, dark or sweet. The light variety is generally used with white meat dishes, more for flavor than color, and the dark type with dark meats and more for color than flavor. Sweet soy, often known as ketjap manis, is a typical Indonesian/Malay seasoning made with palm sugar and spices. It makes a versatile seasoning for many dishes.

STAR ANISE: Featured in Chinese and Malay simmered dishes and marinades. The dried form of the star-shaped fruit of an evergreen tree. Use sparingly as it has an intense anise or licorice flavor. Available in the spice section of your market.

STOCK: Everyone will tell you that homemade stock will give you the best flavor, however, let’s be realistic about how much time we have to spend in the kitchen. I recommend you substitute canned chicken broth for any recipe calling for stock, whether for soup or for stir-fry dishes. Canned stock often contains salt, so I taste it before I use it for the first time to judge if I need to adjust the seasoning of the dish. Increasingly, I find many excellent canned Asian or Cantonese broths featuring ingredients like dried scallops and  Chinese ham. Feel free to use these premium products instead of ordinary canned chicken broth for most of these recipes.

SWEET PEPPER: Bell peppers (sometimes called ‘capsicums’) – red, green, yellow – any one or a variety will do. I like to choose an attractive assortment of colors to brighten up the food I cook.

TAMARIND: The sour-earthy tasting fruit of the Tamarind tree. A popular ingredient in many Southern-hemisphere cuisines around the world. Used to provide a suitable sour flavor in many different kinds of dishes. Available as a plastic wrapped block of pulp, fiber and seeds weighing a few ounces. Choose blocks that are soft and flexible, not hard and dry. Tamarind pulp is used primarily to make Tamarind water.

TAMARIND WATER: Made from store-bought tamarind pulp. Break apart a lump of tamarind pulp about 2 tbsp. (25 ml) in volume and soak it in a half cup of hot, but not boiling, water. Let stand 10 minutes and strain the mixture before use. Tamarind water will keep for a few days in the fridge and can be frozen for future use.

THAI BASIL: Also known as bai horabha, it is reddish purple in color and reminiscent of anise. Used in curries, steamed dishes and soups. Look for Thai basil in Thai, Lao or Vietnamese markets. The Thais use several varieties of basil, bai krapao or ‘holy basil’ having the strongest flavor is actually a type of balsam used in stir-fry dishes. Do not substitute holy basil for Thai basil as its flavor is much too potent.

TOFU: Made from soy bean milk. Tofu is available in a number of consistencies, each degree of firmness used for different types of dishes. I generally use the firm variety at home though. Tofu is easily digested and wonderfully nutritious with a slightly nutty flavor when fresh. Make sure you buy it as fresh as possible and use it right away.

TURMERIC: Is a member of the ginger family. The root can be dried and ground into a powder. Its rich yellow color gives curry its characteristic color. Fresh turmeric root can often be found in Thai, Lao or Vietnamese markets. It has a superior flavor to dry powdered turmeric, but be aware that it can easily stain clothing and porous cooking implements. Grind a small piece (1/2 inch long) of the fresh root in place of turmeric powder, you will be surprised by the delicious flavor.

Enjoy!

E&OE